Standing by the huge granite solstice stones set on the top of Holt
Hill in Andover, Massachusetts, I could clearly see the Boston skyline
twenty miles off to the southeast, Beyond the towers of the city on
this clear autumn day, the horizon was formed by the Blue Hills in
Milton. I wasn't able to see Noanet Peak in the Noanet Woodlands in
Dover further to the southwest, but I was thinking about it. Trail use
pressures have led to restrictions such as trail-use
scheduling and registration of bike riders at Noanet. I was all alone
here at the Charles W. Ward Reservation, no other mountain bikers,
not even any walkers.
Just like Naonet, the Ward Reservation belongs to The Trustees Of
Reservations. It's not quite as large, 640 acres to 695 acres. It has
a local high spot, Holt Hill at 420 feet is the highest point in Essex
County, and 33 feet higher than Naonet Peak. Both have about 10 miles
of trails. But the difference is in bike traffic; even on a weekend
the Ward Reservation gets only moderate use, No regulations governing
bicycle use have to be promulgated (as of 1993) other than the basic
rules that apply to all Trustee's properties, chiefly the prohibition
from trails in mud and cross country ski seasons, and the restriction
of group sizes to 5 riders.
After three rides at Ward, I can say that this area has some really
fine "playground" riding (my definition of riding done in a
confined location on a dense trail network), almost all of it
singletrack stuff with two major hills (Holt and nearby Boston Hill),
two hilltop clearings with long distance views from Gloucester to
Boston, and interesting artifacts like the solstice stones on top of
Holt Hill. These stones were placed by Mrs. Charles Ward in memory of
her late husband, who had bought the property in 1917 and had turned
it into a reservation in 1940.
Despite the prominence of the two major hills (Boston Hill is 385 feet
high, I found that I could put together a trail loop that for nearly 5
miles traveled over singletrack through low, rolling woodlands, with
lots of rocks and a couple of stream crossings on exposed rocks, as a
sort of warm-up before tackling the hills. The climbs are not a lot in
overall feet, a bit over 100 vertical feet, but short and
steep. Longer climbs of lesser steepness are possible, making hilltop
access easier if desired.
After my five mile warm-up, I go for the top of Holt Hill right up the
steepest trail back now near the parking area. I don't make it all the
way on the steepest pitch on the loose stuff, but the rest at the top
is worth it, sitting on the hub of the solstice stones(it looks like
an old granite millstone to me), and viewing busy Boston so far off
from my solitude.
Then it's off on a meandering ride down into the valley between Holt
and Boston Hills. a detour along a hill crest trail on intervening
Shrub Hill, then a steep charge to the top of Boston Hill, diverging
off the property to have at the ski lift of the abandoned ski slope
that abuts the reservation. Then a trail around the cyclone fence
enclosing a water tower and some antenna towers leads to my favorite
spot, elephant Rock, overlooking the whole north shore to the east,
Gloucester to Boston.
Reluctantly leaving this last outlook on my ride, I head down the
longest downhill trail, over a mile on singletrack. leading to a
succession of lefts and rights, including one trail along the boundary
with an adjacent holding. This property features several noisy dogs,
one of which, who seems to be allowed to run loose, comes onto the
trail to object to my passing. This route eventually takes me back up
Holt Hill by a longer more gradual ascent, and then the final drop
towards the parking lot crosses one more smaller hill and an open
field, then crosses a paved driveway, and then it takes a really steep
two step drop to the head of a boardwalk that leads out to Pine Hole
Pond, a quaking bog of some interest. Here.I turn right a few hundred
feet to the parking lot. I have a dozen miles on my computer due to
some doubling back on trails, a nice interesting ride..
On three different rides in November (none on weekends) I met several
walkers, some with dogs, all were cordial, and in the parking
lot at the end of my third ride I met a mountain biker from nearby
Lawrence, a fortyish guy who said he prefers to ride alone. He'd been
out all day, starting here and riding via adjacent lands on the Bay
Circuit Trail over to Harold Parker State Forest and on further to the
woods around Middleton Pond. He knew his way around and we compared
trail notes some.
I decided last summer, when I began to look into Trustees' properties
hereabouts for riding opportunities, to join them, and did so. They do
a lot for anyone who enjoys being outdoors in unspoiled surroundings
and I feel we should support them with memberships if we are going to
ride on their trails. My $65 family membership is a good investment in
access to several good riding areas, though it's not required, (TTOR lands are open to everyone, ) as well as providing me discounted access to some
of their shoreline properties like fabulous Crane's Beach Reservation
in Ipswich, and including Miser Island in Salem Sound to which I
sometimes paddle my sea kayak. Those of you who enjoy riding on trails
on such quasi-public land might consider investing some of your biking
budget in the organizations that provide these places to ride. When
one thinks of all the money that's spent on techno-junk for the
bikes...