26" front wheel (on front shocks)

[drswims]

I need to replace my Mavic 221 26" front wheel that has a Shimano Deore LX axle. Looking for wheel/axle combo of similar or better quality. Using Velociraptor tires on it right now. Also, the front shock can't take disc brakes.

Shop says that if they open the axle up to re-pack the bearings, there's a chance they could be toast, then I'd have to either buy a new axle or a whole wheelset. They said that a whole wheelset would be cheaper of the two. Well, if I take a chance on repacking the axle, it would be a lot cheaper, but don't want to chance that, then find I'd have to spend more money for one of the other two options.

So, anyone have 26" front wheel available?

[antonio]

I have a disc wheel with a Specialized Stout qr hub and 36h Singletrack Comp rim (not sure of the mfr, may be Sun Ringle). It has less than 50 miles on it. I'll sell it to you for $20.

If you want a front disc brake, I can sell you a Hayes HFX9 with 160mm rotor for $30.

The reason Im selling so cheap is, well, I haven't used these in over two years. Don't need em, and they're just taking up space.

[drswims]

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately, my front shock can't take disc brakes.

[Cove_HJ]

I think the shop you are talking to might not be helping as much as they could. Yes you might pull the axle on the front hub and find that the bearings are shot, but that practically never requires an entirely new hub. At the very most you'd be replacing the axle, cones and bearings, which is less than a half hour operation. If you were to replace the entire hub, you would have to re-build the front wheel, which is where the price starts to go up, but repacking the bearings is pretty easy. Even with this worse case, you'll be out $20 at a good shop, NOT the price of a new front wheel.

I'd maybe check another shop.

[alvinnf]

I think the shop you are talking to might not be helping as much as they could. Yes you might pull the axle on the front hub and find that the bearings are shot, but that practically never requires an entirely new hub. At the very most you'd be replacing the axle, cones and bearings, which is less than a half hour operation. If you were to replace the entire hub, you would have to re-build the front wheel, which is where the price starts to go up, but repacking the bearings is pretty easy. Even with this worse case, you'll be out $20 at a good shop, NOT the price of a new front wheel.

I'd maybe check another shop.

This poster has the right idea, have you taken the thing apart and looked at it yourself? You only need to replace the hub if it is pitted where the bearings go. just take it apart wipe the inside out with a rag and look to see if the inside of the hubs are pitted. Like wise check where the axel matches the bearings, is that pitted? If no get some new bearings and grease and your in business.

[drswims]

Alvinnf and Cove_Hj, thanks for the reply, I appreciate this kind of input.

I have not looked at the bearings, as I don't know what to look for. Alvinnf gave me good direction. So, when I can (which should be soon given this lousy weather), I'll see if I can check it out myself.

Old saying goes, when ya can't afford it, do it yourself (or something like that).

FYI - there is a decent amount of play side-to-side at the axle, hence my post. I asked the shop if I could get another half-season out of it, they said yes. So, I was thinking this would buy me time, and utilize this forum.

[alvinnf]

Alvinnf and Cove_Hj, thanks for the reply, I appreciate this kind of input.

I have not looked at the bearings, as I don't know what to look for. Alvinnf gave me good direction. So, when I can (which should be soon given this lousy weather), I'll see if I can check it out myself.

Old saying goes, when ya can't afford it, do it yourself (or something like that).

FYI - there is a decent amount of play side-to-side at the axle, hence my post. I asked the shop if I could get another half-season out of it, they said yes. So, I was thinking this would buy me time, and utilize this forum.

Ironically, today I took apart the rear wheel on my ten yr old ss, cuz it was rolling very chunky. I fully expected to find wasted bearing and wrecked cups. Much to my surprise what I found was a cartridge bearing, so I am going to keep riding it till it will no longer roll or stay true. I think if you took it apart and repacked it with grease, something thick like Phil woods, you could probably ride it until your next bike. On a side note when you do repack it, don't adjust it till its tight, leave a little play in it just a little and then use your quick release to finish your adjustment. Allot of time people adjust them perfectly off the bike and then inadvertantly overtighten them with the quick release and wreck the bearings.

[drswims]

Well, gotta thank you guys for helping to steer me in the right direction. Instead of paying more than $100 for a new wheel, I ended up paying about $10.

I opened the hub, cleaned it out, saw no noticeable signs of wear on the inside, but saw scores and pits on both the cones and the bearings. In fact, one bearing, that I noticed, had a torn shell. Needless to say, the old grease had tiny shards in it. I used Polylube to repack fresh new bearings. The shop said I was lucky they found the right cones for the bike.

Ya saved me a bundle!

Thanks again.