View Full Version : SS Conversion
johnnyt
September 4th, 2002, 11:45 AM
I have a bike that I am considering turning into a SS, but can't imagine how to get rid of all those gears. Obviously I remove the derailers and shifters, but can I use the same cranks (three chainring type)? Also do I need a new rear hub? Are SS hubs free like on a bmx bike or do they constantly cause the cranks to spin?
CouchingTiger
September 4th, 2002, 01:41 PM
Basically what you will need to do is to buy a few simple parts and then start stripping the old "clutter" off. What you will need is;
* Surley Singulator (chain tensioner)
* Cassette cog spacers (about 2" worth)
* Single chainring bolts (shorter then those for 2 chainring)
* Single cassette cog
First pull off the derailleurs and shifters and throw them in the scrap pile. Then pull off the chainrings from the triple crank. Next remove the cassette from the rear freehub.
You can use the same cranks, just pull all but the middle ring off. I use a middle on the outside of the spider, in the place of the big ring. You then replace the standard chainring bolts with the shorter ones. Typically you will want a sub 2/1 gear ratio for these parts, assuming you are going to do some climbing. I run a 32/18.
In the rear just pull the cassette and then drop on some (about 2/3 of you 2" stack) cassette spacers, then the single cassette cog, and then enough of the remaining spacers so that the old cassette lockring squeezes the whole mess tight. NOTE: you want the cog to be roughly in line with the front chainring, which is accomplished via the spacing of the spacers-cog-spacers on the rear freehub.
Last you install the Singulator in the place of the rear derail in order to tension the chain. They work best pushing the chain up toward the chainstay vs. pulling it down away from the stay. The Singulator comes with 2 springs that are opposite each other to allow for this. Install the appropriate one if it is not already in place. Then cut your chain as short as you can and still have the Singulator in place, tensioning it.
Bam! You're good to go. You've also lost about 3# of unwanted weight. Think of how much faster you will be now!
-Couch
djfattire
October 8th, 2002, 03:19 PM
Howdy-a few words to let you in on a few experiences I've had converting my rig to a one-gear...
1-chain-line is CRUCIAL-I got mine perfect by installing PROFILE bmx cranks (cro-moly)installation was a breeze
with more than enough spacers and they are indestructible to boot....AND alot cheaper than you would pay for an ISIS
style setup....
2-with this set up there was no need to remove the entire rear cassette-the chain-line was centered perfectly at
the front due to the infinite amount of spacing possibilities of the profile crankset...
3-the rumors about a bmx style rear cog are likely true IE:
the ramp up is non-existent with a bmx cog but I've had ZERO issues with noise OR losing the chain because of the MTB cassette-it works just fine. Believe me, I weigh just over 200lbs and I know how to beat up things-I've had no problems!You can leave the cassette where it is...
4-you will learn quickly (as I did!) that the dry wax style chainlubes will dissipate rapidly-as soon as halfway through your rides-your MTB chain is going through alot more stretch
than usual because being in one gear, you are putting some SERIOUS strain on it. I would recommend the $27 SACHS / sedis chain on the expensive end of your local retailer's display case-it's worth every penny to not break your chain! (I only replace mine ONCE per year) along with the front chainring/they wear together (isn't that sweet!)so go with a more coventional style wet chain lube for better results....
5-wide bars help tons as do a more beefy stem. It's not unusual to see enormously wide risers on a single speeder for a good reason-LEVERAGE! (besides-you'll be going slower between those trees anyways-RIGHT?)
6-learn to grind up those inclines STANDING UP! I don't know any super-athletic types who can sit and gring a single speed bike (YET!)
7-GOOD LUCK and have FUN!-that's what it's all about anyways.... ;D
8-last but not least...a good tensioner will save alot of aggravation and expense-I spent only a small amount-around $49 for the SURLY SINGLEATOR and it was definitely
a bargain-installation was easy and it works the first time!
Shop around if you will but you would be hard-pressed to find a more simple device or more user-friendly instructions-and it actually has a WARRANTY! you can't beat that with a stick!
November 1st, 2002, 03:03 PM
I have a bike that I am considering turning into a SS, but can't imagine how to get rid of all those gears. Obviously I remove the derailers and shifters, but can I use the same cranks (three chainring type)? Also do I need a new rear hub? Are SS hubs free like on a bmx bike or do they constantly cause the cranks to spin?
JT,
I have a good article from the Bontrager web site that I can let you look at that goes step by step into the SS conversion process.
I'll bring it on Saturday if I remember.
MMcG
November 12th, 2002, 08:18 PM
I have a bike that I am considering turning into a SS, but can't imagine how to get rid of all those gears. Obviously I remove the derailers and shifters, but can I use the same cranks (three chainring type)? Also do I need a new rear hub? Are SS hubs free like on a bmx bike or do they constantly cause the cranks to spin?
Jolly,
How's that Single Speed conversion project going? Can we get an update?
Would love to see the finished product either via a photo or in the real when you are done with it!
vBulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.