Cyclocross Bike Build

[Nomad]

I'm building a cx bike but am stumped as to whether I should go with a straight mtb style bar or a traditional road style. I've never owned a road bike. Used a set of slick tires on a rigid mtb, had a 3 speed once when I was 10. Also what's the thoughts on component groups, reports on the shim 6700 say there quiet and smooth, sounds good. Want a bike that's tough but not a tank. It will see as much off road as road. Going with Easton bars, wheels, neck,& post on a Cross Check I think. All opinions wanted thanks.

[skunkty14]

Drop bars for sure IMO, gives you multiple hand positions to change between while riding. I find a flat bar on a bike designed for drops or something with more reach than a flat bar tends to feel goofy. Again, personal preference.

If you're concerned about access to brakes you could always run a set of inline levers with will remind you of your MTB. 6700 is very nice you'll be pleased with that gruppo. Curious why you'd spend the $$ on the gruppo to hang on kind of a tank frame? Not that I wouldn't take one....

[Nomad]

Not sure myself, I really like the Fuji RC sweet looking, lighter and comes with 6700 group. The only reason I'm considering Surly is the steel. Everyone seems to like the feel of steel. Kinda messed up with my stumpy, great bike but bb is lower than I expected and it still bothers me. I don't want to make another mistake like having a bone jarring ride from a bike on epic rides cuz I picked the wrong frame. Truth be told I'll probably get the RC, loved it since first sight. Just hung up on the steel thing.

[bikdav]

I have both an older steel frame (Jamis Nova) and an even older aluminum (Cannondale) cyclocross bike. The steel bike _ the Jamis _ seems to ride marginally better. But, that is what my body tells me. You might feel differently about the steel verses aluminum question. I"ve tried road and cyclocross bikes with straight bars and like the drop (road) bars much better. Skunkty14 raised an interesting question about such a nice group on a less than "feather-weight" bike. Nevertheless, cyclocross bikes are about toughness, not lightness. The Shimano 6700 group passes the toughness test very nicely.

[sea&xc]

I have a similiar background that is focused on primarily riding dirt. I got a cross bike last year so I'd have a reasonable pavement and dirt road option.

Very simple bike, steel frame, single speed, drop bars and inline levers. No brakes on the drops. I did add a Nexus 8 hub and with bar end shifter so I had some gearing and it's working great.

I find that when I'm cruising around town or on a trail then I'm on top of the bars and have brakes available in a familiar position. If I'm on pavement then I don't need the brakes often so I'm in the drops and more aero. The only issue I have is when standing I have minimal grip since there are no brake hoods to hold on to. You'll definitely want to have some hand options due to the variety of terrain you can ride with the bike.

[CouchingTiger]

Keep in mind also that a road/cross TT is much shorter than a comparable MTB so flat bars may have you all bunched up on the bike. Add between 70 and 100mm to the length of a flat bar setup to get the position on the hoods, which is where most people spend most of the time.

[mkrobin1]

I use these.....

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ROBIMI%7E1.COR/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.pnghttp://store.somafab.com/somajunebugbar.html

[Nomad]

Thanks for the feedback! Definitely going with drop bars. Any opinions on frames? Lookin to get 100k rides, (no racing) but also tough enough for off road, and some touring. Considering the Fuji RC but not sure how tough it is.

[bdee]

Thanks for the feedback! Definitely going with drop bars. Any opinions on frames? Lookin to get 100k rides, (no racing) but also tough enough for off road, and some touring. Considering the Fuji RC but not sure how tough it is.

I'm pretty sure that Fuji is tough enough. I ride mine full retard style in the woods and it's been great. It's definitely a stiff bike but I'm never going as fast as I would be on a mtb so it's no big deal, and the stiffness is appreciated on the road.

The Bianchi Volpe might not be a bad idea either, around $1000 complete and it's steel.

Not sure about touring on the Fuji, maybe light touring would be about it? Full on touring is best done on a real touring bike, there are some nice complete bikes out there nowadays for short money (Raleigh, Rocky Mtn, Surly etc..).

[bikdav]

It's interesting that you mentioned the Bianchi Volpe. If I remember correctly, it was and still is marketed as a touring bike. But yet, I've seen quite a number of cyclocross riders using them for competition.

[bdee]

It's interesting that you mentioned the Bianchi Volpe. If I remember correctly, it was and still is marketed as a touring bike. But yet, I've seen quite a number of cyclocross riders using them for competition.

It's a nice, albeit heavy, cross/commuter bike. Bianchi used the same steel tubeset they built the San Jose from as well. The stock tires are obnoxiously slow but other than that it's a great all around ride.

[hsb3]

Nomad, you mentioned the low bb on your stumpy. I had the same problem until I got a BETD link. They are made by a company in England. It replaces the stock rear shock linkage, specifically to raise the bb. It works great, I have much more clearance over rocks and roots. There are several threads on the mtbr specialized forum about this or goggle BETD link.

[Nomad]

Nomad, you mentioned the low bb on your stumpy. I had the same problem until I got a BETD link. They are made by a company in England. It replaces the stock rear shock linkage, specifically to raise the bb. It works great, I have much more clearance over rocks and roots. There are several threads on the mtbr specialized forum about this or goggle BETD link.

Wow, over 1/2" more clearance, that's great! Heavy price tag though, $200+ s/h, ouch.