Grrrr: Hydro brakes & removing front wheel

[Troutbum]

Happy New Year all,

I recently switched from a pickup to an SUV and now find myself removing my front wheel often. It's become a royal @!$#& to put it mildly and I'm finding myself stumped.

Avid Juicy 5's on older Vanilla 125RLC with Hayes V6 rotors. Every bleepin' time I remount the wheel I ultimately have to readjust the calipers to keep from rubbing. I see no discernable play in the wheel hub. The Avids do not have a caliper alignment system like the BB7's. I was thinking I need to shim them out a bit with something next time I adjust???

Appreciate any input...

[woodsguy]

Make sure you don't squeeze the lever when the wheel is off. You could also use the spacer that comes with the brakes to keep the pads apart (if you don't have one ask you shop if they have any extras).

[Troutbum]

Sorry... I guess I should clarify.

When I replace the front wheel, it never seems to seat in the same place, meaning I then need to realign the caliper.

(I've already played that fun game where the 7 year old grabs a handful of lever while the wheel is off.)

[digger]

Not sure if this is the problem, but juicys seem to prone to the calipers not retracting the way they should, probably just one side. Solution that has worked for me is to take the caliper off and pads out. Clean out any dirt, then squeeze the handle enough (but not so far as to blow the pistons out of the bore) to expose some of the piston. Dribble a drop or 2 of brake fluid in an attempt to get some on the o-ring. Push both pistons all the way back with some sort of lever. Work them several times out and back with a drop or 2 of fluid. Clean the caliper up and reinstall and hopefully both pads retreat evenly. Bleeding will probably be necessary as a last step.

[Troutbum]

makes sense..might be worth a try.

It's as if the tolerances are so close that it's nearly impossible to get the same tension on the QR. I was thinking of shimming with some aluminum foil or a playing card when I align the caliper next time... there would just be a bit more throw before engaging.

[ridefaster]

I have this problem with all disc brakes except for Shimanos where the pads are spaced further apart. Usually after playing with the QR a few times you'll get the right tension.

It is frustrating...

[woodsguy]

I don't use fork mount racks anymore so I rarely take off my front wheel. But I have rented bikes on business trips where I had to take off both wheels to fit in the trunk. All the bikes had Avids and I never had a problem.

I would try using the spacer when the wheel is off. If the pads are held in place I can't see how they would move.

[Reptilzs]

when replacing the wheel you must use the same qr clamping pressure. i like to have the bike upright and push down on the handlebars to seat the wheel while clamping the wheel. also it might be quicker to just push the pistons back into the caliper before you start readjusting the caliper. the avids should have the cps washer stack. i find the washer stack to be a hassle and replace with flat washers.

[Troutbum]

I suppose I should have emphasized the "older" part of my fork. Put the bike upside down under some good lighting this evening and discovered my problem. Standing straight in front when tightening, I could watch the wheel cant consistently in one direction. The outside of the non-disc side fork dropout has a pretty nasty cup worn into it. No wonder it's dammed near impossible to seat the hub correctly.

I think if I could find a QR with a larger diameter I might get by for a while since the cupping is limited to one area (hard to visual without pics, I'm sure.)

Thanks for the ideas, all.

Grrrr. again.

[C.P.]

makes sense..might be worth a try.

It's as if the tolerances are so close that it's nearly impossible to get the same tension on the QR. I was thinking of shimming with some aluminum foil or a playing card when I align the caliper next time... there would just be a bit more throw before engaging.

Yes, this would work as well, I've used a business card on each side to adjust pad throw out a bit when a rotor is wonky, just got to get the lever throw set to an acceptable spot, this is a good temporary fix at best...get those fork lowers replaced! (to me this seems a good excuse to look for new fork).

[Troutbum]

(hard to visual without pics, I'm sure.)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_n622RIu7WYc/S0KHpBcPVAI/AAAAAAAAA4g/Q9He6e72ePc/s512/IMG_0297.jpg

[digger]

Try a different skewer. Shimano ones seem to have a lot of clamping power. The ones with the plastic surface for the cam to ride on are hard to get any real pressure. Weak skewer could be a possible source for the dropout wear.

[Dugg-E]

Hope skewers have quite a large knurled clamp and a brass bearing surface that the cam rides on...I had XT skewers and the aluminum//plastic nut end (opposite side as lever) was quite a bit smaller in O.D.

The issue presented in this thread is just another reason why i LOVE my BB7's !!

[specialk]

I have had a similar issues with Hayes Stroker Trail Brakes and a Maxle front axle. I removed the wheel once to put it in the car a few weeks ago and now I the break feels too tight and the throw in the lever is significantly reduced. Honestly, I don't know how to fix it. Anybody have these brakes and know what to do?

Thanks.

[Reptilzs]

spread the pads with a clean butter knife, screw driver, or whatever to push the pistons back in. loosen the caliper a little, pump lever a few times till firm then tighten caliper bolts

[ktmdad]

Take the fork off and have a machine shop take "just" enough material off to get rid of the cupping and get it flat again. Just a touch with an end mill will be all it needs. Provided it's not to deep the fork should have enough material left to be perfectly safe. Like I said, just a touch. If you don't get it flat you'll be playing the games you are now every time.....or just replace the fork.

[bdee]

This thread is a good reminder of why we all need to be super careful with fork mount roof racks. I messed up some fork drops ages ago as well by having the velo vise a hair too loose. Well, that, and the all high speed cornering ;)

[adrnalin69]

Bdee you are the closest so far. From the photo it looks like the drop out is actually bent/twisted. If that is the case, milling the drop out may not be the fix. In fact if they bent/twisted at all I would suggest not riding that fork any longer. That material has been weakened enough that is could just snap. I would suggest you have your LBS take a peek at it. They can put drop out gauges on them and make sure they are true. The magnesium and aluminum forks weaken to easily to be bent back. The shop shouldn't charge you for this assessment.

This means the lowers of the fork are toasted. If they are, you have 3 choices; 1. buy new lowers for approx 1/2 the price of a new fork. That looks to be the bottom of a fox float/vanilla. Those lowers will cost up too $400 plus the overhaul labor to get it fixed up. 2. You can look for a cheap fork of same make and model and use it for parts ( i.e. ebay), and 3. Buy a new fork. The new stuff out there will blow you away. But it'll cost you for a worth while fork. Think $500+.

There is a 4th option. Maybe fix it the way it is and hope it doesn't snap and cause you to slam you chin into the rocks and roots of New England's earth. I didn't mention a 4th option before because this should not be the recommended option.

I hope this helps.

[ktmdad]

I got a price quote of $200 with the sticker kit from Fox for a replacement lowers on my 140mm Talas forks. I was considering going from the standard QR to a 15mm setup at the time. I guess not to bad but if you can't change it youself you need to add a labor charge from you LBS.