Reba Fork Problem

[Flying Bison]

I have a Rock Shox Reba dual air 29er fork, which has never given me any problems before (its about a year and 1/2 old). Recently I had the fork "tuned up" while the bike was in for other work, just for the sake of some proactive maintenance, and now whenever the fork compresses there is a loud clicking sound, which seems to be coming from the top tube on the dive side (near the lock out). There also seems to be a small amount of oil leaking from the lock out. The fork isn't losing any pressure, but something is definitely not right. Anyone have any idea what might be wrong, or what the fix is? It seems like I spend more time driving back and forth to the shop lately then on the trails!

Thanks!

[stich]

I would make who ever worked on your REBA buy you a new one.

I'm a firm believer (been MTB'n for over 21 years now) in the "If it ain't broken, don't even think about fixin it" principle.

[pulsepro]

Maybe too much oil has been added to the fork???

[thomllama]

bring it back to where you had it done... talk nice and see what they will do for ya before you get to upset about it..

[Spaz]

Are you an agressive rider? How heavy are you? Are you the type of mtbr that likes to be first in line or would you rather have someone else go first and see what happens? All of these could be factors.

[adrnalin69]

Your Motion control is defective or you did some squishing with the lock out on full lock. I work on lots of these. Go to your LBS and have them Call Sram/Rockshox. They will send out new parts. all the shop has to do is put the correct oil amount in after the new bits are installed. It will be good to go. They have figured out the problem with them and so far sooo good. Do not consider it a disposable item. They won't give you a new one. That is no way to go about it. IT IS FIXABLE!!!! Amazing fork as well!

[Flying Bison]

Thanks! I brought the bike back to the shop and they replaced the motion control. The good news was the parts were still covered under warranty. Seems good to go now, we'll see how it holds up after a few rides.

[thomllama]

Thanks! I brought the bike back to the shop and they replaced the motion control. The good news was the parts were still covered under warranty. Seems good to go now, we'll see how it holds up after a few rides.

sweet!!

[Hillridge]

This is exactly the thread I was hoping to see.

I just got a bike secondhand with a Rock Shox Reba SL 29er. It has the dual air chamber and the lockout on the top right. My old bike has a Rock Shox Tora for reference.

A few concerns:

I set the + and - chambers as specified by the sticker on the fork, but when I took it out for a quick spin on some trails behind my house, it felt like the shock was bottoming out very easily (I'm assuming it was bottoming out, as it would clunk loudly and stop traveling). Like if I pulled up the front wheel and then slammed it down leaning over the bars I could bottom it out every time. I almost never felt my old fork bottom out.

The rebound adjust on the bottom right seems very easy to turn, and a bit wiggly if it's not all the way tight. Is this normal?

The lockout on the top right is also very easy to turn. Is that normal too?


Overall I like the bike, but I think the ebay seller was a bit generous with his description of "everything works great".

[Evil Chocula]

This is exactly the thread I was hoping to see.

I just got a bike secondhand with a Rock Shox Reba SL 29er. It has the dual air chamber and the lockout on the top right. My old bike has a Rock Shox Tora for reference.

A few concerns:

I set the + and - chambers as specified by the sticker on the fork, but when I took it out for a quick spin on some trails behind my house, it felt like the shock was bottoming out very easily (I'm assuming it was bottoming out, as it would clunk loudly and stop traveling). Like if I pulled up the front wheel and then slammed it down leaning over the bars I could bottom it out every time. I almost never felt my old fork bottom out.

The rebound adjust on the bottom right seems very easy to turn, and a bit wiggly if it's not all the way tight. Is this normal?

The lockout on the top right is also very easy to turn. Is that normal too?


Overall I like the bike, but I think the ebay seller was a bit generous with his description of "everything works great".

I have this same fork. Someone on MTBR told me to forget about sag and listed settings, and do this:

60% of your riding wieght in the positive chamber
then -10 from that number and put it in the negative.

Example: I wiegh 170, so 170 x 60% = 105. 105 psi in the positive, and 95 in the negative. Rebound 3 clicks off the most most springy (rabbit).

Kind of whacky, but I've been rockin this fork with that same setup and its the way to go IMO.

[Hillridge]

I may have to try that, though it's a lot different from the sticker on the fork. Sticker says ~150psi +/-, that method would give me ~125+ 115-. It seems like my fork has some seal issues too, as the lock out does nothing.

[bikerdom]

I use the chart on my Reba Race 29 and I weigh 200lbs in gear and I never have bottom out or clunking sounds. I think your fork needs servicing.

[Hillridge]

I agree. There are also problems on the lockout side.
Is there a recommended place for rebuilds?

[Evil Chocula]

I agree. There are also problems on the lockout side.
Is there a recommended place for rebuilds?

I've had Reba work done by JRA in Medford and by Beau at Norwood Bike Depot and would recommend both.

I think PUSH industries is now doing custom tuning on these too, but it will probaly run you around $150 shipped.

EDIT: Here's the link for PUSH: http://www.pushindustries.com/2009/index.php?menu_id=42&type=products&title=REBA&product_id=37

[skunkty14]

Hillridge couple questions to help us out here:

What year is the fork? '09 or the previous generation?

Did you adjust the air chambers as Evil C. pointed out? I get the feeling from your initial post that making the adjustment year the "+ & -" sticker was the rebound control, not preload. If I've misunderstood disregard.

What's your weight?

Whether or not the lockout will "work" depends on whether you have a pushloc fork or not. I believe you have a fork with Floodgate control which behaves more like a bump threshold blow off, not a true lockout. You should feel some difference by turning the knob on top of the damper side, but Floodgate is adjustable beyond the range of the knob I believe which could be helpful for you if you're looking to lockout the fork.

[adrnalin69]

For now, puttin air setting aside, you sound like your fork needs motion control (lock-out) replacement and the o-rings in side your spring side (the super sag/bottom out issue) needs to be replaced as well. If you bought the bike second hand then you may not get it under warranty. But with an over haul it shouldn't cost you more than $130. If you did send it to Push (which is something that I highly recommend) it would cost you another $100 dollars or so. But your fork will work better than anything you have ever ridden.

Either way it should work better than what you are describing.

[adrnalin69]

Actually, is there any oil leaking from either top cap or both?

[DirtMissile]

I agree with the rest of the posts, the damping does not sound like it is working. It could be low on oil, have bad internal seals, or both. A few quick checks:

Lower the air pressure to about 70 psi to make the damping more noticeable then:

With the lock out off (fork active), Turn the rebound all the way to slow, push down on the fork, it should return noticeably slowly.
Set rebound back into the middle range, fork should return faster.

Close off your pop loc adjuster (maximum lockout) on top of the lockout/compression adjuster. Lock-out the fork. Push down on the fork, it should lock up and resist compression motion. It may take 2-3 pushes before it locks if it has been sitting around a while.

Turn the lockout 1/3 of the way to open. Should compress, but be relatively stiff. Turn lockout 2/3 open, should be softer, but still resist compression. Open it all the way, compression damping resistance should be minimal.

If the fork does not pass any of the tests, it needs servicing. Take it in if necessary and drop the Ka-ching, but if you are at all handy, these forks are easy to service. Download the manual from the SRAM website for complete instructions.

Hope this helps, good luck!

[Hillridge]

The bike is from 2008, so I assume the fork is an '08 model as well.

Lowering the air pressure and testing the damping showed the rebound working somewhat ok. I still haven't seen any difference in lockout position though. This fork has the floodgate thingy on it as well. I set it to the middle of its range when trying this stuff.

Where is a good place to get rebuild kits? I'm pretty sure at this point that it needs it. I'm hoping to squeak out a ride today, but if it starts bottoming out again I'm going to quit as I don't want any more damage.

I currently have the fork setup with 130psi in the (+) and 120 in the (-) as I'm around 210 with all my gear and water. The sticker on the fork suggests 150 psi in both for this weight. I'll see how this new setup works at lunch time.

[Reptilzs]

sounds like you need to raise the oil level if the rebound is working ok. doing a oil change in the damper is not difficult. remove knobs and damper with a wrench. dump old oil and refill to correct height. reinstall damper and knobs. the rock shox site has tech manuals. check it out and see if it is somthign you can handle. get damper oil at the motorcycle shop

[Hillridge]

I'll give that a shot. I think I'll do a rebuild on my own and if I'm still having issues spring for a PUSH rebuild.

I rode for an hour or so at lunch and anything more than a small bump made the fork clunk.

In unrelated matters, this happened at lunch today. It's technically not a flat:
http://hillridge.net/images/not_a_flat.jpg

[adrnalin69]

Were are you at Hillridge? I can help if need be. If your close by I'll don't mind.

[thomllama]

ya, I ended up rebuilding it myself after sending it out to the shop and got it rebuild under Warr. But only lasted like a month, M-control got all locked and blew the wiper seal off going over a small bump.. was VERY loud.!!:eek:
here's the link to the thread here... l
http://www.nemba.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24146

there is LOT's of info on doing it both from Sram and all over the web.

Mine works OK now, has kinda a suction sound when operating but that doesn't bother me. I did installed over sized O-rings and haven't had an issue with it since, but I'm still not impressed with the ride. If i set it to take small bumps it bottoms out really easy, if I set it so it doesn't bottom out over mid sized stuff it's so stiff I might as well have a rigid. gone back to my 26er with a Manitou R7 on it and it enforced my impressions more. the R7 is like a pillow, barely feel roots and small rock and never bottom it out once in the the last 3 rides.

yes, I've set the upper and lower air chambers to sticker specs, have tried many many other combo's, just can't get a great feel out of it. Thinking of getting the Manitou Minute 29er on sale over at jensonUSA, only $250 or so... heard goo things about the Drake too.

[bikerdom]

The suction sound is normal on Rock Shox. The Reba 29 is an excellent fork and very user service friendly. Minutes and Drakes are excellent. If you get one with Absolute dampening you may hear a clicking/knocking sound when the Absolute platform adjustment is "turned on" or activated. I've fixed a few of them and it's a five minute fix after getting a new shim that is attached by a C-clip on the bottom of the Absolute dampener. While your at it check the oil level. The clicking/knocking sound won't damage anything but gets annoying. Hayes/Manitou is very quick to get the part to you by emailing the tech department with a request for the fix. http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=contact
After this fix it's quiet and smooth. Good luck.

[thomllama]

ya, I think I got one of the bad ones. Seems there was a batch in 06 or 07 that had Motion control issues on the 29er version... lots of people are happy with them so I don't think it's the norm.

I haven't ridden every fork made but in general I have found that the Rock Shox's seem to be stiffer than Manitou's. I like the more pillowed ride. reason I have a shock. Otherwise I'd ride a rigid. ;) would like to go to a 120 fork also which is what Voodoo is now listing as the "stock" set up on the canzo 29er and the geo on the frame is the same. and for $250 for the Minute, don't think I care it's last yrs model... worked fine then, sure it does now.;)

[Flying Bison]

I agree. There are also problems on the lockout side.
Is there a recommended place for rebuilds?


I also used JRA for the issues described at the top of this thread and the fork is running great now.

[DirtMissile]

Thomllama: Oversive orings are likely causing some of your performance problems. Orings need room to float and expand in their grooves. Many folks mistakenly think that they work thru mechanical squeeze like a gasket. In reality they work more like a tubless-tire or chevron seal. They need a light preload, but fluid on the high pressure side gets behind the oring to expand and press it against the sealing surfaces. Oversize orings will sometimes work in static situations, but will cause high friction and likely premature failure between moving parts. Your fork may possibly have a quality defect on a component causing excess clearance that you are band-aiding with oversize orings.
See this link to the Parker Manual for info: http://www.aviaquip.com.au/oring/Section%20I.pdf pdf page 7 (1-3) has some good diagrams.

[thomllama]

Thomllama: Oversive orings are likely causing some of your performance problems. Orings need room to float and expand in their grooves. Many folks mistakenly think that they work thru mechanical squeeze like a gasket. In reality they work more like a tubless-tire or chevron seal. They need a light preload, but fluid on the high pressure side gets behind the oring to expand and press it against the sealing surfaces. Oversize orings will sometimes work in static situations, but will cause high friction and likely premature failure between moving parts. Your fork may possibly have a quality defect on a component causing excess clearance that you are band-aiding with oversize orings.
See this link to the Parker Manual for info: http://www.aviaquip.com.au/oring/Section%20I.pdf pdf page 7 (1-3) has some good diagrams.

very possible, and after 2 repairs (2 diff shops) and being told nothing can be found wrong with it, and the same issues showing up... got to believe there was faulty manufacture in sizes of something. But, after each rebuild it rode fine for a few weeks to a couple months and had the same characteristics soooo...? and the rear shock is the same way when it comes to being to stiff or too easily bottomed out. As I said I've been riding my old K2 26er for the last 2 weeks or so and today we rode a place I've never been, MUCH more rock and root and the 05/06 manitou R7 fork/Radium shock handled it quit a bit nicer than the Rock Shox's fork and shock do on smoother trials.

I do think Ride styles come into effect big time when deciding on a fork/shock. I think someone faster than I am would be quite happy with the Reba. Hitting stuff at higher speed, you can "harden" the shock and it'll feel smoother do to the increased force applied going over the same obstacles. I'm a slower rider (more a "glad to be out in the woods so take my time and enjoy as long as I can" rider over the "WOOHOOO BOMB through the woods" rider ;) ) And being slower I prefer a shock/fork that moves very easy through the first 1/2 of travel but ramps up faster on the top end.... that all make since? ;)

[DirtMissile]

That might be the case. I tend to ride more on fast flowing single track, than on slow technical stuff.
Might also be a combination of getting all the settings in the ballpark for your individual riding style.
The fact that you have experienced premature failure more than once though, might point to something more sinister going on inside your fork. Surface finish defects or nicks on sliding surfaces might be cutting orings or causing premature wear.

My Reba has never leaked oil or air in 4 years. Still has all the original seals with one oil change. My odometer is at 6600 miles, about 2800 of it on the Reba. Every thing still functions great, unlike the Rock Shox Duke that came on my Fuel originally. The damper rod on my Duke self distructed twice in 3 years. Most of the new SRAM designed Rock Shox are decent forks, unlike the old stuff designed before the take-over.

[Hillridge]

SRAM sent me a '09 Reba 29" air spring to replace my borked '08, but they look totally different. The '09 is even a little shorter. Can I still use it, or did they send me the wrong part?

The old one is on the top in this photo:

http://hillridge.net/images/DSCF5378s.jpg
Click for unedited hugeness (http://hillridge.net/images/DSCF5378.jpg)