View Full Version : Crown Race Installation
SteveC
March 24th, 2009, 10:31 AM
Whats' the best way to install the Crown Race, or BasePlate, without ruining the bearing surface, like i just did? Fortunately I bought two from CK. I don't have the proper tools, obviously.......don't really want to invest in them either.....
Thanks for any help!
SC
kevinmcc15
March 24th, 2009, 10:43 AM
I use an inch&half brass plumbing fitting to drive it on. You can borrow mine.
Gimpy00Wang
March 24th, 2009, 10:50 AM
PVC pipe is another popular choice that works well. If you do your own work Chris King's crown race tool is a worthwhile investment. I got mine off eBay for about $10 shipped a couple of years ago. It's just a small aluminum die that you place over the race just right. If you're nearby I'd be happy to install it for you.
- Chris
BillE
March 24th, 2009, 10:56 AM
I have used PVC as well. Works like a charm.
leebo
March 24th, 2009, 02:10 PM
My LBS works for me. I have most of the tools that I need to do work on my bike. Not for headset or BB work. It is most important to face the headtube in order for the races to be square and straight.
justwanttoride
March 24th, 2009, 03:44 PM
1/2" threaded rod (2) Large washers (2) nuts. Take your time.
SteveC
March 24th, 2009, 11:10 PM
The pvc sounds like a good idea. I'll go to the hardware store and see if I can find the right size. BTW, the headset is already in place, I'm installing another fork and didn't want to remove the crown race from the old one, yet...
thanks for the help!
SC
Jisch
March 25th, 2009, 09:14 AM
I may be ignorant (in fact that's not in doubt), but I just used the bottom bearing to set the crown race. I've only done a few, but I pushed the crown race on as far I as I could by hand, making sure its straight, then put the fork on and basically used the top cap bolt to push the crown race in place. I had to tighten things up during the first hour of riding, but all good after that. I suppose there's some chance the CR could get crooked during the process, but if everything else is straight, I don't think its possible.
Ignorance is bliss, so...
John
Gimpy00Wang
March 25th, 2009, 10:31 AM
Some races go on easier than others. Some forks need facing, but most don't.
John... The method you described will work in many cases, but isn't the most gentle on the bearings. :)
When it comes down to it...you can be pretty sloppy with most bike maintenance and assembly chores and be fine. The margin for error can decrease though when you get into exotic materials such as carbon or titanium. I guess as long as you're not pounding away at the race like a gorilla with an iron pipe and a sledge hammer you'll probably be fine. :)
- Chris
Jisch
March 25th, 2009, 11:28 AM
Some races go on easier than others. Some forks need facing, but most don't.
John... The method you described will work in many cases, but isn't the most gentle on the bearings. :)
Obviously care required and if I felt I was cranking on the bolt and there was no movement, I'd reassess my method, in the few I did, it was smooth and no serious torque on the bolt.
The first time I swapped forks was kinda funny - FSA headset on one, CK on the other - and I didn't realize there was such a thing as a crown race. Oops. Just couldn't get the thing tight and not binding... too funny.
John
SteveC
March 26th, 2009, 08:57 AM
Got a length of 1.25" PVC at H Depot, and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.....
One small detail, I firgot about, I gotta cut the steerer....last time I did this, a friend lent me their nice steertube-cutting jig and the starnut installer. I'm gonna have to go that route again. The first time I ever installed a fork, I used a pipe cutter. DON'T ever do that! It leaves a huge burr on the inside so that the headcap doesn't fit inside the tube, and it doesnt cut a square edge......
C.P.
March 26th, 2009, 09:16 AM
Got a length of 1.25" PVC at H Depot, and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.....
One small detail, I firgot about, I gotta cut the steerer....last time I did this, a friend lent me their nice steertube-cutting jig and the starnut installer. I'm gonna have to go that route again. The first time I ever installed a fork, I used a pipe cutter. DON'T ever do that! It leaves a huge burr on the inside so that the headcap doesn't fit inside the tube, and it doesnt cut a square edge......
measure twice, cut once :p
I have tools for this if you need them Steve, come by my place Sunday before the meeting if you haven't got things sorted out by then...
skunkty14
March 26th, 2009, 01:35 PM
If you don't take CP up on his offer I have a starnut setter and steerer tube cutting guide as well. If you're going to the Womp. trailwatch meeting tomorrow night I can bring them along.
Cutting guide and hawsaw will still leave a bit of a burr on the tube, nothing a little bit of lite file work won't take care of.
bikdav
March 27th, 2009, 08:33 PM
Interesting this issue came up. All of these suggestions sound like they are worth trying. That has always been the painful part of the job. I got the crown races on straight, but I am always looking for a better way.
SteveC
March 28th, 2009, 12:18 AM
I actually brought it by Dave's Bike in Milton today, and they cut it and installed the starnut right there. All that's left is to thread on the v-studs and install it.....
SteveC
March 28th, 2009, 12:20 AM
and figure out the air pressure needed, turn some dials......with any luck I'll be able to ride on Sunday, at Borderland.....
tozovr
March 28th, 2009, 07:36 AM
Got a length of 1.25" PVC at H Depot, and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.....
One small detail, I firgot about, I gotta cut the steerer....last time I did this, a friend lent me their nice steertube-cutting jig and the starnut installer. I'm gonna have to go that route again. The first time I ever installed a fork, I used a pipe cutter. DON'T ever do that! It leaves a huge burr on the inside so that the headcap doesn't fit inside the tube, and it doesnt cut a square edge......
With steel steerers I use a hacksaw, with aluminum I use a pipe cutter....a decent file removes that burr :)
As an aside, a quality cutter is helpful as it won't walk on the tube.
bikdav
March 28th, 2009, 11:14 PM
With steel steerers I use a hacksaw, with aluminum I use a pipe cutter....a decent file removes that burr :)
As an aside, a quality cutter is helpful as it won't walk on the tube.
Yes. That's a good point that you brought up. I've been using a pipe cutter on both steel and aluminum and that worked beautifully.
SteveC
March 29th, 2009, 09:57 AM
Rode Wompy yesterday with the a buncha kids.....the initial feeling is...GREAT!
Even smoother than the Marzocchi......
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