Skip to my frustration

[Longshanks]

I have a 2 month old Specialized hardrock - replaced my hardtail Giant that I beat into submission after 5 years. Despite my 6 or so years of riding, I'm a newbie when it comes to fixing things on my bike - the Giant just never gave me much trouble until the end, so I never learned to fix stuff. Anyway, my latest frustration is that my chain "skips" in higher gears - 1.4 - 1.8 and 2.4 - 2.7. I ended up busting the chain because of this last weekend, and after fixing the chain, hoped the problem would be solved. But it's not.
By "skipping" I mean, at pressure, every 10 - 15 revolutions or so it just skips - I don't know how else to explain it. It totally breaks my momentum and, at that one point, the chain.
I'd be very grateful for any advice.

[ArmOnFire]

Could be a few things:
-Derailleur out of adjustment from cable stretch
-Chain link is tight, kinked

[C.P.]

If the indexed shifting is otherwise okay, it sounds like a classic Deraileur Hanger Alignment Problem...(bent hanger)

[truckboy]

Two months old? What does the LBS where you bought it say they are gonna do for free to fix it?

[Longshanks]

Haven't been to the LBS yet. Going at lunch today. I only have the one bike, so I'd rather learn to fix stuff myself so that I don't miss any days of riding, thought I understand it may be wise to let the LBS fix it instead.

Thanks for the suggestions so far. The bottom wheel of the hanger does seem a bit off I think, so maybe that's the culprit.

[slapheadmofo]

-Derailleur out of adjustment from cable stretch



That'd be my bet on a new bike that's breaking in.
Bring 'er back to the shop for your free '60 day tuneup.

[Ben-O]

I'll be back at the LBS in a freakin' second....

Just because you bring it in doesn't mean you won't be learning anything. Ask them what they think it is. Then after they fix it, ask what they did (even things things that didn't work), what tools they used, etc.

Some places will even let you watch them fix it...

[truckboy]

The bottom wheel of the hanger does seem a bit off I think, so maybe that's the culprit.


Here's your first mini-lesson: The thing with the wheel on it of which you speak is the derailleur. The thing we are caling the hanger is the small piece of aluminum attached to the frame that the derailleur "hangs" from. It's there so you don't break the derailleur or the frame. It can be bent out of and back into shape fairly easily. Better than either of the other two.

Cables do stretch out after a little bit. Two months is about perfect timing in my humble opinion.

Park Tools has a good website for doing your own work.

That's about all I have. I've exhausted my knowledge on this subject.

[Longshanks]

Thanks for the remedials.

Went to the LBS and watched him fix it. It was new bike break-in cable stretching type adjustments. He first adjusted the stop (I think that's what U call it - philips head screw), then adjusted the cable tension until the gears all worked right in the vise. Then he road tested it. Then I did. Then we had tea and crumpets.

He adjusted and gave me the full run-down on the disc brakes as well. And the front deraileur, which also needed adjusting.

I feel like the caveman on SNL - "your technology confuses me" - but I'm getting there.

[truckboy]

I don't care what anybody says, derailleurs are a bitch. Park's website calls adjusting your derailleur a "beginner" skill. That's Crap. What's intermediate, building your own wheels? Designing and welding your frame?

None of it's neurosurgery, but (not that I'm an expert) I have had to screw things up royally and ride a different bike before I was able to fix my "fix". More than a few times it required bugging the crap out of the BSG at the LBS.

I built my last bike with the help of Broadway Bicycle School (worth the 90 bucks at, like $18 an hour, plus parts) in Cambridge MA and the derailleurs were the worst part. Everything else I could pretty much figure out on my own but didn't want to screw up.

One other remedial that I just learned a year or two ago: To adjust the position of the chain on the rear cogs(gears), turn the barrell adjuster toward the cog you need it closer to. That means, if it won't shift to an easier, bigger cog (this is the back now), turn the barrell adjuster so that the TOP goes toward the bigger cog. That would be counter clockwise if you were squatting down behind the rear wheel and turning with your right hand. I can't parlay that to which way to turn the adjuster on the shifter at the handlebar end. Maybe you can.

[slapheadmofo]

Sweet. Sounds like you got good service; what shop was it?

One expensive lesson in derailleur adjustment I learned way back was make absolutely sure you NEVER let out the inboard limiter (or stop) screw enough that the der can shift itself into the spokes. Specially with an aluminum frame without a replaceable derailleur hanger. Doesn't do the wheel a whole lot of good either. :-[

[Ben-O]

Don't get me starting on derailleur problems.... ;D ;D ;D

Friends are a good source of bike advice too.

[radair]

I don't care what anybody says, derailleurs are a bitch. Park's website calls adjusting your derailleur a "beginner" skill. That's Crap. What's intermediate, building your own wheels? Designing and welding your frame?

One other remedial that I just learned a year or two ago: To adjust the position of the chain on the rear cogs(gears), turn the barrell adjuster toward the cog you need it closer to. That means, if it won't shift to an easier, bigger cog (this is the back now), turn the barrell adjuster so that the TOP goes toward the bigger cog. That would be counter clockwise if you were squatting down behind the rear wheel and turning with your right hand. I can't parlay that to which way to turn the adjuster on the shifter at the handlebar end. Maybe you can.


I would agree that front derailleurs are tricky, but the rear are not so bad. Your barrel adjustment advice above is solid, EXCEPT that the new low-normal (rapid rise) rear derailleurs work just the opposite. It's best to think in terms of cable tension - turning your barrel adjuster (at der or bar) counterclockwise increases the tension and will move the derailleur slightly toward 1st gear on your shifter. The only other real adjustments are the limit screws, and once you set those right you should never have to mess with them. As slapheadmofo mentioned, it's really good to keep the derailleur out of the spokes!

<edit> I've found the most common issue (other than cable stretch) with bad shifting is a misaligned derailleur hanger. Oftentimes even when they look straight, the Park adjustment tool often shows subtle corrections that need to be made. That tool is the best $50 you can spend for bike maintenance, IMO.

Building wheels is not difficult! A few hours and at least two beers and you're done. Some good instructions are helpful, too. Valuable skill to have.

Don't know about welding your own frame, but AOF could probably shed some light on that. ;D

[ArmOnFire]

Posted by: radair Posted on: Today at 12:34:45pm

Don't know about welding your own frame, but AOF could probably shed some light on that.

I know enough that it takes TONS of skill.
I have a new appreciation for all bike frames.

And not to de-rail the thread, I'm glad you got your problem fixed.

A few of you sound like single speed candidates! ;D

[Quo Fan]

I'll second the hanger adjuster as the single most valuable tool on my workbench. Once I've straightened the hanger, all shifting problems go away.