wanted: rear cogs for singlespeed

[gnurider1080]

alright well i need some other sized cogs for my singlespeed so that on hilly trails im not dying trying to pedal my 2:1 geared bike up a hill. my cassette that i got off of my bike has useable cogs only up to a 16t so i need some cogs to lower the gear ratio. im looking for cogs in good condition or if someone can reccommend a good cassette that can be broken up to use for cogs please tell me. and if i get a new chain would it make sense to get an 8 speed or should i go with a 9?

[gnurider1080]

actually i just found a good sram 8 speed cassette on jenson usa for $19 that looks like it can be broken up to be used for separate cogs.

[MMcG]

I have an 18t cog that I can sell you real cheap like - it is pretty nice, brand new - say $10 or so?

[gnurider1080]

its ok, im gonna get that sram 8 speed cassette and break it up so ive got a bunch of different cogs. at $19 its a steal. thanks anyways.

[bike187]

if you get singlespeed specific cogs, it will owrk a bit better. they're slightly more burly, to much more burly depending on brand and style. they also don't ahve shift ramps so you'll be less likely to throw a chain

[gnurider1080]

if you get singlespeed specific cogs, it will owrk a bit better. they're slightly more burly, to much more burly depending on brand and style. they also don't ahve shift ramps so you'll be less likely to throw a chain

most singlespeed cogs only accept a singlespeed chain which i dont have and cant run due to my current setup.

[gleeke]

I've got a gussett oner..brand new $20...2 chain rings 16-18...never mounted

[ssnoobie]

if you get singlespeed specific cogs, it will owrk a bit better. they're slightly more burly, to much more burly depending on brand and style. they also don't ahve shift ramps so you'll be less likely to throw a chain

most singlespeed cogs only accept a singlespeed chain which i dont have and cant run due to my current setup.


Not true. The novatec, shimano, chris king, etc. cogs can all be run with "regular" chains. A lot of guys swear by the SRAM PC48, PC58, PC68 series of chains. Check bikeman.com for some cheap SS specific rear cogs. I think the novatec cogs are $4 each.

[bdee]

Get the chainline right and run a cheaper, stronger Sram chain (PC 48 or so) and you'll be in business on a ramped cog. On my first SS build I commit every sin: old ramped chainring (32t), newer ramped cog (18t) and a newer PC 48 8 spd chain - oh and I run an old der. as a tensioner. It's got a lot of miles, with a lot of climbing on it - and it still passes the chainwear test. On the other two I run rampless chainrings with ramped cogs with no issues - it is quieter though. Clean it after wet/particularly muddy rides and it'll work great. If the chainline isn't right it'll be more apt to jump. Never, ever run a 9spd chain if you plan on climbing, it will break way easier. Stay away from running a convert on Deore freehub bodies as well (thin grease freezes up - also they wear out very fast and it's a bitch to upgrade to a nicer freehub due to cone spacing issues - that's a whole other subject).

All that said once the ramped stuff is fried I'll spring for rampless everything so it wears slower and is quieter.

[gnurider1080]

Get the chainline right and run a cheaper, stronger Sram chain (PC 48 or so) and you'll be in business on a ramped cog. On my first SS build I commit every sin: old ramped chainring (32t), newer ramped cog (18t) and a newer PC 48 8 spd chain - oh and I run an old der. as a tensioner. It's got a lot of miles, with a lot of climbing on it - and it still passes the chainwear test. On the other two I run rampless chainrings with ramped cogs with no issues - it is quieter though. Clean it after wet/particularly muddy rides and it'll work great. If the chainline isn't right it'll be more apt to jump. Never, ever run a 9spd chain if you plan on climbing, it will break way easier. Stay away from running a convert on Deore freehub bodies as well (thin grease freezes up - also they wear out very fast and it's a bitch to upgrade to a nicer freehub due to cone spacing issues - that's a whole other subject).

All that said once the ramped stuff is fried I'll spring for rampless everything so it wears slower and is quieter.


thanks for the tip. i guess ill be needing some new hubs soon since im running deores. right now i dont have the cash to get new hubs, because then id want new rims, so im using what ive got.

[bdee]

Just run what you've got until it dies. You can upgrade the freehub it's just a pain due to the diameter of the spacer/dustcap that sits above the drive side cone. Basically it's too big to work with a LX or XT freehub. It can be spaced out (away from the freehub) and still work. The seal just isn't as tight. It will also be closer to the lockring and you'll most likely have to space that off the freehub a little more (probably the toughest part to get right - keeping it spaced while getting the lockring threads to bite).

Does any of this make any sense? ::)

[gnurider1080]

for the most part it does. once the hub dies i think im gonna pick up a set of the surly singlespeed disc hubs. or maybe if i can muster up the cash ill get a chris king singlespeed hub.

[ssnoobie]

I'll second the run what you have advice.

I built up my single speed from worn out parts. An old 34 tooth stx chainring, and a worn 7 speed 20 tooth cog. I had derailling issues no matter how much I fussed with the chainline. I finally fixed my problem by sandwiching the 20 tooth cog between two 24 tooth cogs (24spacer20spacer24). It worked well. I can hear it pop every now and then but it never tosses the chain. The bike and drivetrain have functioned well as a winter beater.