Hydraulic Disk Vs. Mechanical

[knucklebuste]

Hello, on my new bike I have the Hayes HFX 9. On my hollowpoint that is. I had to cut the rear cable to shorten it and basically disconnect it from the lever. I used a new ferrule and bushing and whatnot and have bled it 2 times. However the rear brake always feels spongier than the front. I'm assuming the ferrule is squashed or some shite and there is air getting in there. I have the nut as tight as possible (the nut on the lever that crushes the ferrule). I bleed the brake (rear) and it's tight like the front, but after a day or so, spongy again. I think this method of the ferrule and whatnot is bogus. So I'm done with hayes on this bike anyhow. I've had no problems with the HFX MAG brakes on the other 2 bikes, but I haven't removed the cables at all. So on the Hollowpoint, I'm considering switching to avid mechanicals and have the following questions
1. Do I need a different adaptor (I have the 74mm hayes ones currently)?
2. Will any brake lever work, or do I need a disc specific one?
3. What cables do you suggest using?
4. Do these really work as well as hydraulic?
5. Do you have to pull the lever harder to get them to work?

Thanks for the help.
Knuck

[AA]

1. Do I need a different adaptor (I have the 74mm hayes ones currently)?

Not sure

2. Will any brake lever work, or do I need a disc specific one?

Any brake lever will work (unless it's for old cantelever style brakes)

3. What cables do you suggest using?

If you want the best use Gore Ride-On cables

4. Do these really work as well as hydraulic?

Yes

5. Do you have to pull the lever harder to get them to work?

No

[knucklebuste]

AA, thanks. Have you used both? Anyone? I'm not sure if I can get use to the cable actuated brakes, but I'm sick of messing with hydraulic fluid. I like my brakes stiff. I mean hardly have to touch them at all to stop. Usually use the single finger too. Is the same true for the Avids?
Knuck

[Jisch]

I've got Avids, they are definitely strong enough for one finger actuation. I've hade them for a little over a year. I've had to replace the cables after about 9 months. As long as the cables are clean they are just about as powerful as hydraulics. I had a bike over the summer with Hopes on it. The Hopes were maybe a bit more powerful, but a lot harder to modulate.

I run full length cable housings, which I think keeps them running smooth longer. Once the cables are dirty, it seriously affects their efficiency.

One disadvantage of the Avids is the fact that you have to manually adjust them. Its literally turning two adjusters on each brake once every other ride or so. Very easy, hardly worth mentioning, but it is a difference.

John

[SloMoJo]

The freeriders last weekend all had hydraulics and I was asking them similar questions.

Basically, they were saying the hydraulics give them more braking power with less effort. This is more desireable when doing downhill racing which can be 1-3 miles of downhill. Same need for freeride or trials they say, when you need the bike to stop short and often. This kinda riding is tiring enough without having the force the brakes too.

So it seemed that hydraulics have they're place. Yet, any XC rider would be quite happy with Avid mechs. That's my impression anyway. I have Avid mechs..and really like em.

[grayghostss]

I know this may be too late but I ride XC and urban with 7" F+R Avid Mech's. Unless I start serious DH, I'll never switch from these. They really are VERY simple and NOT messy. You can use any V-brake levers but I use Speed-Dial 7's. They allow for on-the -move modulation. They bolted right onto my 2K Heckler and 04' Marzocchi fork. I'm using Shimano Stainless cables. I feel like I have complete control of my rig in all conditions, without fade-including down steep hills in the rain at 40mph!

So...I fully endorse the mech's dude.