Building a bike?

[EVIL BOTA]

Well since I'm laid up for a while .I am thinking of building a new bike . This will keep me thinking about biking and maybe end up with a great bike.

I am going to start with a Specialized Enduro frame and go from there. I am looking for advice on everything else. Head sets to bottom brackets,hubs,wheels. Handle bars and set posts.
As with everyone I am looking for durability and lite weight.

I will make a list from what ever parts that you guys suggest and see what wee come up with.

As for why the specialized,well the dealer down the street has been taking care of me for the last 6 years and I would like to keep giving him my buisness.He only sells Specailized bikes. Plus I can use his shop any time I want. He also gets me parts at his prices.
Any and all input will help.

Give the gimp a hand..lol

Evil gimp

[splat]

Curious , why did you pick the enduro frame and not the S-works ?

[gungywump]

Evil!
Building at shop prices means NO limits soooo . . . .

King Headset
King Hubs
RaceFace Turbine LP 5-bolt compact
RaceFace Evolve XC BB
Thomson Seatpost
Thomson Stem
Azonic Doublewall Bars or Easton Monkeylight DH
Avid Mechanical Disc Brakes
Paul Love Brake Levers
Grip Shift 8spd
XT Cassette 8spd
XT Rear Derailer
XT Front Derailer
SRAM/Sedis/Sachs PC-58 chain
Sun Singletrack Disc Rims
Wheelsmith or DT 14g spokes w/Brass nipples
Salsa skewers
Salsa seat collar QR

Marzocchi or Fox Vanilla
I cannot fault either of these forks. I love Marzocchis but, I tried out the Vanilla 125RL this summer and it is a GREAT fork. It is a little smoother and more plush than the 'Zochs with the same stiffness and reliability. I haven't had any problem with it so far. Can't go wrong either way.
;)

[MMcG]

Evil!
Building at shop prices means NO limits soooo . . . .

King Headset
King Hubs
RaceFace Turbine LP 5-bolt compact
RaceFace Evolve XC BB
Thomson Seatpost
Thomson Stem
Azonic Doublewall Bars or Easton Monkeylight DH
Avid Mechanical Disc Brakes
Paul Love Brake Levers
Grip Shift 8spd
XT Cassette 8spd
XT Rear Derailer
XT Front Derailer
SRAM/Sedis/Sachs PC-58 chain
Sun Singletrack Disc Rims
Wheelsmith or DT 14g spokes w/Brass nipples
Salsa skewers
Salsa seat collar QR

Marzocchi or Fox Vanilla
I cannot fault either of these forks. I love Marzocchis but, I tried out the Vanilla 125RL this summer and it is a GREAT fork. It is a little smoother and more plush than the 'Zochs with the same stiffness and reliability. I haven't had any problem with it so far. Can't go wrong either way.
;)


Gungy,

Three questions for you:

1. Why Avid Mechs vs. Hydraulic disc brakes?

2. Why Sun Singletracks vs. something from Mavic?

3. And if you were going to go Marzocchi on an Enduro which model would you pick and why?

Thanks!

McAskalot

[C.P.]

Right on Gungy!
I'm using yours as a template - here's mine

King Headset
King Hubs
RaceFace Turbine LP 5-bolt compact
RaceFace Evolve XC BB
Thomson Seatpost
Thomson Stem
Azonic Doublewall Bars or Easton Monkeylight DH
Avid Mechanical Disc Brakes 185mm frnt/160mm rear
Paul Love or Avid Brake Levers
Grip Shift 9spd
XT Cassette 9spd
SRAM XO Rear Derailer
XT Front Derailer
SRAM/Sedis/Sachs PC-99 chain
Mavic D3.1 Disc Rims
Wheelsmith or DT 14g spokes w/Brass nipples
Salsa skewers
Salsa seat collar QR
Zoke z1 fork

[knucklebuste]

Evil, isn't your current rig a Specialized Enduro? Why not try something different? Knuck

[gungywump]

Gungy,

Three questions for you:

1. Why Avid Mechs vs. Hydraulic disc brakes?

2. Why Sun Singletracks vs. something from Mavic?

3. And if you were going to go Marzocchi on an Enduro which model would you pick and why?

Thanks!

McAskalot


Mark,

1. Avid mechanicals work awesome, they are easy to set up, and you don't have to worry about oil leaking. Unless you are downhilling or a supreme freerider there is no need for Hydros. I can 1 finger skid my Avids so, I can't relly see where more stopping power is needed for trailriding.

2. I like Mavics don't get me wrong. I have 517s on the Hei Hei. But, I also like Sun Rims alot. Either way Sun Singletrack or Mavic D3.1 are great hoops. If the question involved one of Mavic's pre-built, proprietary technology wheels I would say go with a conventional wheel because Mavics warranty program SUCKS!! Not that they won't warranty broken stuff . . . you'll just be waiting a long time to get that broken stuff back.

3. I have not fully educated myself on Marzocchi's 2004 offerings so I'm not sure which 2004 model I would suggest. But, in general I would go with at least (100mm) 4" travel but no more than (125mm) 5" travel and try to get something that uses coils in at least one leg. Depending on how hard EVIL rides would determine the specific model but I suspect a Drop-Off would be a fine fork.

;)

[splat]

Evil, isn't your current rig a Specialized Enduro? Why not try something different? Knuck


That is one of the reasons, I asked why not the S-works, even though I think his current bike is an Stumpjumper not an enduro.

[MMcG]

Mark,

1. Avid mechanicals work awesome, they are easy to set up, and you don't have to worry about oil leaking. Unless you are downhilling or a supreme freerider there is no need for Hydros. I can 1 finger skid my Avids so, I can't relly see where more stopping power is needed for trailriding.

2. I like Mavics don't get me wrong. I have 517s on the Hei Hei. But, I also like Sun Rims alot. Either way Sun Singletrack or Mavic D3.1 are great hoops. If the question involved one of Mavic's pre-built, proprietary technology wheels I would say go with a conventional wheel because Mavics warranty program SUCKS!! Not that they won't warranty broken stuff . . . you'll just be waiting a long time to get that broken stuff back.

3. I have not fully educated myself on Marzocchi's 2004 offerings so I'm not sure which 2004 model I would suggest. But, in general I would go with at least (100mm) 4" travel but no more than (125mm) 5" travel and try to get something that uses coils in at least one leg. Depending on how hard EVIL rides would determine the specific model but I suspect a Drop-Off would be a fine fork.

;)


Thanks for the answers Gungy! They make total sense to me.

Regarding the single tracks......is it easy to get tires on and off those rims? They are a step up from Rhyno Lites correct?

And regarding Evil's rig - I think his current rig is a Stumpjumper FSR, hence the bump up to the Enduro.

[gungywump]

Thanks for the answers Gungy! They make total sense to me.

Regarding the single tracks......is it easy to get tires on and off those rims? They are a step up from Rhyno Lites correct?

And regarding Evil's rig - I think his current rig is a Stumpjumper FSR, hence the bump up to the Enduro.


SingleTracks aren't as much of a step up from RhynoLites as just being a disc specific RhynoLite. They are a little wider and heavier though.

[Adam]

My build is a bit different, especially on the drivetrain side. It's a pound or so heavier, but 1000% more reliable. The cable routing & drivetrain setup sucks on Enduros, so this should make it nearly bulletproof.
This will be one of the nicest Enduros on the planet!

Enduro S-Works frame (.5-1 lb lighter & stronger than M4 Alloy)
King Headset
King ISO Disc Front Hub
RaceFace Turbine LP ISIS
RaceFace Evolve XC BB
Thomson Elite Setback Seatpost
Thomson Stem
Easton Monkeylight DH
Hayes Hydraulic Disc w/ GRC levers
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14DB w/ Speedbone, tensioner, shifter
SRAM PC-99 chain
Mavic 219 Disc Rims (rear has zero dish for Rohloff)
Wheelsmith or DT 14g spokes w/Brass nipples
Salsa skewers
Salsa seat collar QR
Marzocchi Z1 FR SL Fork

[EVIL BOTA]

Curious , why did you pick the enduro frame and not the S-works ?


John that could be the case,but I want to see what the differences are between the two. Weight, travel and such. If its pretty much the same frame why pay the extra$$.

Thanks guys I can't wait to get started.

Bring on the info..!!!!!!!!!

[Tim]

Poisonally, I'd bag the Thomson stem and go with something with a simpler clamp. The Thomson is a PITA.

For rims, I'm partial to Mavics only because they're so easy to mount and dismount tires --- much, much, much easier than Suns. I like Mavic 519s for disc rims as they are very tough and much lighter than the disc-specific 219.

For crankset, I prefer a 2-ring setup with a bash ring, so if it were me I'd go with Raceface standard (not compact) cranks, 24-tooth Action-Tec ti granny, 36-tooth Black Spire Super Pro middle ring, and a Black Spire Ring God smooth bash ring. If you do need a big ring, the Black Spire Super Pro works well there too. The Super Pros shift superbly.

And for bars, if you want to go riser then the Monkey Lite lo rise is nice, and for flat I don't think you can beat the Titec Hellbent Flat Tracker available from Titec's web site for a song. It's basically got the same sweep as the Monkey, but without the rise.

Having built up several bikes over the last couple of years, you're in for some fun -- take your time and enjoy acheiving perfection, at least until the first urge to upgrade hits.

Tim

[AA]

I'll have to agree on the stem change as well. I have had Thomson stems on several bikes and they all end up creaking and moaning. I put an Azonic shorty on my new bike. They arent light but its stiff as anything and the simple design wont ever creak.

[knucklebuste]

Nothing on my rig is gonna creak or crack. Well it might be a tad heavy, but it probably wont break. Hey, the economy ain't that bad right? There seems to be no shortage of a new multi-thousand dollar bikes every other week that someone is building. Knuck
http://webpages.charter.net/kfarrelldba/bike.htm

[AA]

Kevin,

I looked at you parts selection for your new bike, good stuff. One question how does the whole steel crank, chain guide front derailer combo work? I'm ignorant when it comes to these things. I messed around on a few downhill bikes with chain guides and there always seems to be some amout of rubbing. Have you considered skipping the chain guide all together (seeing that it is a trail bike)

Mc AA Askalot

[Dawgee]

Evil you gotta build one of theses puppies!! This is my new project ;D

[knucklebuste]

Kevin,

I looked at you parts selection for your new bike, good stuff. One question how does the whole steel crank, chain guide front derailer combo work? I'm ignorant when it comes to these things. I messed around on a few downhill bikes with chain guides and there always seems to be some amout of rubbing. Have you considered skipping the chain guide all together (seeing that it is a trail bike)

Mc AA Askalot


Well it's really quite simple. The crank is just a steel ISIS crank. The BB is ISIS 73mm and with a .05mm spacer behind the mrp boomerang I will have a perfect chainline. The spindle is 113mm. The front derailleur will work with this setup as it is a clamp on (seat tube clamp)
The Front cranks will be a 22/32/MRP Bash setup.
I figure the whole bike to be from 30 to 35lbs

Also the bike comes with the new 5th element shock which will be fun. However I know nothing about air shocks and don't know if I trust them, so I'm buying the Romic as a spare. Theres a guy over on Hcor.net that has a hollowpoint with a Romic and he loves it. I'm gonna try the tubeless thing with :o STANS GOO :o inside and see what happens. If I have problems, I'll put a 1/2 lb tube in each rim. No biggie. I'm psyched for this build, especially based upon the research I've done on the frame. This thing supposedly rides like a hardtail until you hit a decent bump, and thats what I'm after. NO BOB. I love the 31.8 bars (run em on all my bikes) and they aren't much heavier than the regular ones. Between the X.0 der, the TI BB and the lightweight rims and hubs, I think I'll be ok. The only excessively heavy part on the bike is the cranks and pedals, and only about 1lb more than any normal type of setup. I'm so psyched about this bike. It's gonna rock on the singletrack. I can't wait to see how the tubeless tires and wheels roll as well and the best part is that the only shimano part on the bike is the front derailleur. Yeah I have XT stuff on all my other bikes, but I like to be different. YO YO YO
knuck

[knucklebuste]

Also as for the trailbike comment and the chainguide. The front derailleur supposedly keeps the chain on. But my wife rides the same brutal shite as I on her Hardrock and her chain is constantly falling off. The chain is taught as well, so phuck if I know. However what I am saying is that I don't believe there to be a trailbike in this area of New England. At least the trails I ride on are all brutal rock infested bumpy arse beat on ya butt trails. When I ride, I don't like to stop to fix shite. Also, I like the way the MRP setup looks as well. Everyone says EVIL, EVIL, EVIL, EVIL and I have one already, it works mint, but I like variety and they don't have any DRS chainguides in stock. Can't make enough parts to sell, then homey don't buy. Homey gots ZERO patience and don't wait for nuthin. EVER. Thats the selfish prick I am. Oh nice bike Dawg, we gotta hook up when I get my monsta back from Marz. Nice build man, I hope thats your downhill bike. I'd hate to pedal a bike that has 4" of sag at a normal sitting position. Anyhow nice rig. Don't be a wimp and put a boxxer on it either. Go Shiver, 888, Super T or Monster
knuck

[Dawgee]

Yeah thats going to be my downhill rig Knuck. But im not to smart so i'll ride it around here. Im thinking of an 888 for it to be honest . Once you get your bike fix Knuck we'll hit Stinkin Woods again or maybe even Foxbourgh. We can bring the women with us LOL

[AA]

Also as for the trailbike comment and the chainguide. The front derailleur supposedly keeps the chain on. But my wife rides the same brutal shite as I on her Hardrock and her chain is constantly falling off. The chain is taught as well, so phuck if I know.

Kevin,

I think that the quality of the chainrings and the front derailer contribute greatly to the chain staying on even in the roughest conditions. I ride lots of typical N.E. rocky rooty stuff and dropped chains is an infrequent occurance for me. Having said that I have one bike with a single chainring (8 speed in the rear) and I couldnt keep the chain on that thing to save my life. My solution was a homemade chain guide (looks like a bash ring on the inside).

[MMcG]

Also as for the trailbike comment and the chainguide. The front derailleur supposedly keeps the chain on. But my wife rides the same brutal shite as I on her Hardrock and her chain is constantly falling off. The chain is taught as well, so phuck if I know. However what I am saying is that I don't believe there to be a trailbike in this area of New England. At least the trails I ride on are all brutal rock infested bumpy arse beat on ya butt trails. When I ride, I don't like to stop to fix shite. Also, I like the way the MRP setup looks as well. Everyone says EVIL, EVIL, EVIL, EVIL and I have one already, it works mint, but I like variety and they don't have any DRS chainguides in stock. Can't make enough parts to sell, then homey don't buy. Homey gots ZERO patience and don't wait for nuthin. EVER. Thats the selfish prick I am. Oh nice bike Dawg, we gotta hook up when I get my monsta back from Marz. Nice build man, I hope thats your downhill bike. I'd hate to pedal a bike that has 4" of sag at a normal sitting position. Anyhow nice rig. Don't be a wimp and put a boxxer on it either. Go Shiver, 888, Super T or Monster
knuck


A chainguide on an Ironhorse hollowpoint seems like overkill in my humble opion. As do the burly ass crank arms you've chosen.

Are you really certain you need that much burliness on a 4.5 to 5 inch trailbike?

But hey, it's your bike and who am I to judge really.

Hell, I'm about to put a Fox Vanilla R with Propedal on my Belair in place of the stock Fox Float - so I guess I'm doing similar things to make my bike a little more burly.

But I would think you'd want to keep your Hollowpoint a little lighter than it's going to end up Knuckles, especially since you have that badass Kona DH bike to handle the really heavy duty stuff.

Just my two cents.

Mark

[gungywump]

I think Knuck's ego is still battleing his super-ego.

Knuck,
You do NOT need Cro-Mo tubular cranks. Especially mated to a Titanium BB. Ti BBs come with a rider weight limit (usually under 200lbs) and are for XC racers NOT hardcore trail riders. I say get some RaceFace Turbine LPs with a RaceFace Evolve XC BB ditch the whole chainguide thing and get a shortcage rear derailler to keep your chain taught. Personally I run only a 32t ring up front with a bashguard, an Envee Plate on the inside and NO front derailler. I haven't thrown a chain all summer and I don't have to deal with the noise and excessive drag of a Chainguide.

'Perfect Chainlines' only happen in one gear, all the others are not perfect. Although it sounds cool it's really only meaningful on BMX bikes and SingleSpeeds.


My 3¢

[knucklebuste]

I think Knuck's ego is still battleing his super-ego.

Knuck,
You do NOT need Cro-Mo tubular cranks. Especially mated to a Titanium BB. Ti BBs come with a rider weight limit (usually under 200lbs) and are for XC racers NOT hardcore trail riders. I say get some RaceFace Turbine LPs with a RaceFace Evolve XC BB ditch the whole chainguide thing and get a shortcage rear derailler to keep your chain taught. Personally I run only a 32t ring up front with a bashguard, an Envee Plate on the inside and NO front derailler. I haven't thrown a chain all summer and I don't have to deal with the noise and excessive drag of a Chainguide.

'Perfect Chainlines' only happen in one gear, all the others are not perfect. Although it sounds cool it's really only meaningful on BMX bikes and SingleSpeeds.


My 3¢


Yeah I guess the TI BB idea is stupid and it would probably break with those cranks. I'm buying the kona cranks as they already have the chainrings and whatnot. If I buy the Race Face ones, I don't know what to buy for chainrings cause I'm an idiot. So the kona cranks are overkill, but it's pretty much bolt and go. Simplicity. Thats what I'm after. Knuck

[pudding]

What about color? I'm not going to buy a bike unless it's got mad style and a great color...

Also, are you (Evil, knuck) going with a solid color, two-tone or a multi-color fade?

Since forks tend to be boring in color... how are you going to make the bike flow?

[knucklebuste]

Well my bike is gonna be mad style yo. Mad I say. Ok lets start an arguement about cranks.
Crankset 1. Which I have owned, comes in at 900G
http://www.cambriabike.com/cranks&rings/images/raceface_isis_prodigy_bash_crankset_small.jpg

Crankset 2, which is an XC crank, comes in at 800g
http://www.cambriabike.com/cranks&rings/images/shimano_xtr_m960_crankset_small1.jpg

Crankset 3, which I want to run, comes in at 1020g
http://www.konaworld.com/kw_webstore/images/2k2_kbc_small.jpg

My question. Gungy, in all honesty, for a guy like myself that fluctuates between 170 and 180 (depending on the ammount of meat I consume during the week) you can't possibly tell me that there is going to be a huge difference between the XTR crankset (800g) and the Kona bulge Crankset (1020g) can you? Knuck

[EVIL BOTA]

What about color? I'm not going to buy a bike unless it's got mad style and a great color...

Also, are you (Evil, knuck) going with a solid color, two-tone or a multi-color fade?

Since forks tend to be boring in color... how are you going to make the bike flow?


I really don't care what color it is. As long as it rides great and does what I hope it will, Ill be happy. Plus I don't think I am going to have much of a choice with the colors for the frame. I'm not going to paint it either so I guess I won't be fly! I am looking for performance .

so I guess I won't be fly!



I beg to differ.
You, in the right outfit, and no one even looks at the bike.

[AA]

Well my bike is gonna be mad style yo. Mad I say. Ok lets start an arguement about cranks.
Crankset 1. Which I have owned, comes in at 900G
http://www.cambriabike.com/cranks&rings/images/raceface_isis_prodigy_bash_crankset_small.jpg

Crankset 2, which is an XC crank, comes in at 800g
http://www.cambriabike.com/cranks&rings/images/shimano_xtr_m960_crankset_small1.jpg

Crankset 3, which I want to run, comes in at 1020g
http://www.konaworld.com/kw_webstore/images/2k2_kbc_small.jpg

My question. Gungy, in all honesty, for a guy like myself that fluctuates between 170 and 180 (depending on the ammount of meat I consume during the week) you can't possibly tell me that there is going to be a huge difference between the XTR crankset (800g) and the Kona bulge Crankset (1020g) can you? Knuck


Knuck,

I'm willing to bet that the bulge cranks are 1020g without rings and bash guard and the XTR weight is complete. For what it's worth I just put some Race Face Turbines w/ a signature steel BB on my new bike and they are really nice.

[Tim]

Knucks, I read in a review someplace that the Kona cranks are prone to tearing up your socks / shoes / ankles -- it's the relatively sharp ring around the crank bolt that does it. Just a thot.

Tim

[knucklebuste]

The kona cranks are 1020g complete with rings and guard. As for the sharp ring, yes, I lost a pinky already on my stinky, which has those cranks. Sad, but I like the cranks, so I'm willing to risk a little blood. Knuck

[AA]

The kona cranks are 1020g complete with rings and guard. As for the sharp ring, yes, I lost a pinky already on my stinky, which has those cranks. Sad, but I like the cranks, so I'm willing to risk a little blood. Knuck



Wow. That is pretty light for a steel crank. I stand corrected. As for the blood I'd get some of those 661 ankle guards if you dont already have hightop riding shoes (or workboots).