Crikty Cranky Cranks!!!

[hennymatt]

Recently purchased a Cannondale M800 with Coda Cranks. Not sure what the issue is, me, or the cranks, but there is an ungodly noise that comes from the cranks whenever I say put my body weight on the pedals, going up hill per say, and also the crank arms themselves tend to become loose, once actually coming off during a ride. Is it me or the cranks?? I've tightend the crank arms and such, but I think it may be something more internal in the bottom bracket...any suggestions??? :-[

[bdee]

Remove your cranks, with the correct crank puller (keep the dirty jokes to yourself). Splined BBs/cranks and tapered BBs/cranks require slightly different tools (go with Park Tools). Clean everything you can really well and reinstall (no grease for a tapered BB/crank setup, if you feel you have to use grease for some reason use it sparingly. Use a little loctite on the bolts when you reinsert and tighten them. If you have a BB tool you might as well remove the BB while you have the cranks off and clean the threads in the shell and on the BB really well. Reinstall with a little Phil Wood or some other waterproof grease. If that doesn't do it it may be the pedals, or gremlins, or underpants gnomes or a variety of evil critters. Good luck!

[Mt.A TODD]

I kind of agree with all the above, and that should fix the problem. Out of the four Cdales I've bought over the years, they have all creaked within a week.... however don't think you should fix it yourself, call the shop where you bought the bike and set up a time for them to do it while you wait. Its a pretty quick process with the right tools and the crank bolts should be tightened with a torque wrench- NO lock tight on bolt- grease it and torque it!

Some use Teflon tape on BB shell.

I grease everything so it doesn't seize up, and the proper torque keeps it tight.

Also grease the pedal treads into crank, that can be a cause of noise too!

[T Grimble]

My bike has been plagued by a similar problem.
MY XT crank was creaking all the time. I tightened the crank arm bolts, applied Teflon to the bottom bracket threads and torque them down, even put grease around the front derailleur bracket (Ti frame). In the end I found that the chainring bolts were the problem. When I removed them, some of the threads were even stripped off. Replaced the bolts and the noise went away...for a couple weeks. So I finally gave up and bought a new XTR crank and that made the noise go away...for about one week. On the bright side I never have to yell "On your Right" because people always hear me coming but this isn't about me, it is about you right? If the noise is more pronounced when you hammer verses spin and if it goes away when you are in the lower ring then chances are it is the ring bolts. Now that you know what it is, I am unable to help you but let me know if you end up with the same problem. We can start a support group or something.

-Tom

[hennymatt]

Great advice, thanks to all, I feel so much better knowing I'm not the only one out there with this problem!! Phew!! ;D

[C.P.]

Here's another thing to try: (of course, after you've checked to make sure the cranks are properly installed and torqued)

Put a dab of grease on the flat contact point of the crank arm bolts where the (underside of the bolt head not the threads) head of the bolt comes in contact the crank arm. If there's a washer, a dab of grease here too.
After trying everything else, I took a long hard look, and tried this...it worked - no more crickety crank...

[Jisch]

While it makes me feel better to know I'm not the only one fighting this, I'm still angry... I've got 2003 XT cranks.

I've done everything suggested so far above to no avail. I have read that the problem is the interface between the press fit spider on the drive side crank. The fix is supposedly to put some penetrating Loctite in there. I've done that too.

Also - I bought a torque wrench and found that if you're not using one - you are probably not torquing the crank bolts or BB enough. I found it was a full 3/4 turn further from "hex wrench" tight to "proper torque" tight on the BB - a bit less on the crank bolts.

Even with this, I'm creaking. Shimano says creaking does not necessarily indicate product failure. I've also learned that Shimano will not accept returns from individuals - they will only accept them from authorized dealers.

I have had a Cannondale HT for 5 years, except for when the BB went, I never have had any creaking on it. I've run XT square taper cranks on it the whole time.

John

[sizlinseagulsoup]

Tom Grimble - Is it the 03 XTR?

Take out the bottom bracket. Have your LBS chase the threads (it only takes a few minutes if they have the tool). After they do this, coat the threads in ti-prep (you MUST do this if you have a ti frame, if you don't it will likely seize the bb to the frame).

Basically, if the threads are slightly irregular, the bottom bracket will move ever-so-slightly (you will not even feel it) and creak.

[pudding]

Hey Henrymatt,

What year is that C'dale?

My year 2000 F900sx came with Cannondale EX3 cranks with a Utegra (V1 splined) bottom bracket. One of the bolts got a little loose and rounded the splines... I tried tighting and tighting ...but the bolts wouldn't stay tight, and in the end the only way to get rid of the creak was to replace the cranks.

Since I didn't want to spend the money on XTR, I had to get a V2 splined bottom bracket so I could put shimano LX (or XT) cranks on the bike.